Pros: So far so good , Im over driving this driver by using 3xAA carriers or 11.73v measured at rest . There is voltage sag under use , so that could be very good . Measured at the tail it draws a little over 1A in my 3D SSC P7 Maglite

Cons: Larger voltage input range would be nice , but so far none really .

Other Thoughts: Other than a larger voltage input range , up to 12v at least , ?

Bottomline: SO far so good , it didn't fry with my rechargeable's , time will tell if it lasts or not . Looks to be safe with dry cells , as they just cant deliver all that much power , and the output is virtually halved by using dry cell AA's . With .6A or less with sag current drain , I expect they will run over 1 hour in my light , depending on just how much energy is stored in the cells .
With rechargeable AA's Im getting over 700Lumen from my maglite , just a matter of wait and see if the driver burns out or not . No buyer remorse here , Ive used other high voltage drivers from another HK dealer and they only lasted a few minutes before becoming faulty , so far this driver has outperformed the so called Super Driver by quite a margin .
Ive got my fingers crossed for this one .

Pros: * Useful device and cheaper than building your own.
* Samll size fits easily into projects as well as flashlights
* low heat generation, although should be heat-sinked.
* wide input voltage tolerance, makes it flexible in many designs

Cons: Not a full 2.8 amp output from my module. I measured 2.33 Amps at 6.2 volts into a SSC P7

Other Thoughts: I would like to see clearer feed connection lugs on the circuit board side, I know this primarily used in flashlights, where the underside base rings are spring fiited to the batteries. However, just a little input positve/negative tag on the PCB would be helpful.

Bottomline: The lower 2.33 amp output is not an issue for me. I found that at 2.33 amp the SSC P7 worked perfectly with optimal brightness. In fact there was still considerable heat to dissipate and my guess is this would be problematic when used in a flashlight construction. My comment is 2.33 amps is an ideal efficiency setting, who ever drives with the foot to the floor all the time anyway! Great product... will use again

Pros: i did not notice a difference in brightness in my spider fire p7 when using this driver vs driving the flashlight threw a 2ohm resistor using a 8.4 volt rc car battery. the driver is more efficient than the resistors i was using. (the 20w resistor got very hot)

Cons: driver does work as is but could be made better by the addition of a low value ceramic capacitor parell to the large electrolytic input and output caps i used a couple of 50v .01uf caps. adding the caps nearly eliminates the drivers hissing.
the 2 diodes marked ss24 get to hot to touch after a while but it did not shutoff and the diodes are rated for 125degrees Celsius so i don't think they are going to fail. that said i plan on heat sinking them to be sure there will be no problems in the future

Other Thoughts: notes on testing
i tested it for about 30min after my mods
all tests where done with a 8.4 volt rc battery
i did not have the driver in the flash light (will not fit in a spiderfire) but the p7 was securely mounted and heat sinked in the flashlight. sorry i did not measure the current to the led and don't plan to it does not seem to greatly effect brightness.

Bottomline: im happy with it. it is cheaper than i could have made it myself and the parts i used to modify it where extremely common and easy enough to find in old broken devices i had laying around
never direct drive a led without some sort of current limiter weather it is a driver like this one or a resistor of the propper value.